Of course the weekend we returned from the trip was extremely low-key consisting of mostly laundry, sleeping, and relaxing. I'm pretty sure everyone was very happy to be back in Rome, off our feet, and in a constant location. Even with a couple days of rest, nobody ignored the need to be productive - we still had to finish our blogs by Thursday February 10th and then hand in our sketchbooks and present our Derive on the 15th. We also received our new studio project which is due the Wednesday before we leave for Turkey. So needless to say nobody is without something to do or work on and there is no time to be bored (or reason considering we're in ITALY!). As stressful as this all may sound to some of the people reading this, it surprisingly isn't. Sketchbooks, while I wish I had had much more time to work on and refine my drawings, are very relaxing and enjoyable. When you're being graded on them, and aren't necessarily "gifted" at drawing, it can be a little worrisome and stressful but the task itself is freeing and one seems to improve with every new drawing, every new line, constantly learning and experiencing. Working consistently in a sketchbook has helped to change the way I look at and think about architecture. It's a whole new approach to the physical world when you are translating it into a two-dimensional medium.
Every aspect of this trip has the potential to "shake things up" or cause oneself to question everything that was once considered typical or right; even class structure. When you think of college classes I'm sure the first thing that comes to mind is a large lecture hall with close to a hundred students scattered throughout the seats as far from the front as possible; some taking diligent notes, a few catching up on sleep, and others texting or passing notes while a professor commands the class from the front with a series of slides or notes written on the blackboard. Maybe not the most affective settings for learning but, none-the-less, it happens to be the norm…
Now imagine 20 college students, studying in a foreign city, whose lesson plan for the day is to literally get lost in the city... That is what learning is like when you are studying architecture in Rome. A city with more history in its streets than can fit within the pages of a single history book.
For our Field Sketching project, we were split into groups, given a location in Rome, and told to "get lost." That location was to serve as a starting point for a journey we were asked to take around Rome (eventually making our way back to Campo de'Fiori). The assignment entitled "Dérive," a technique of rapid passage through varied ambiences of repulsion and attraction… In other words? Let the city guide you. Start at the point and get lost. We completed our journeys prior to our trip up north and presented them this past week. It was really interesting to see everyone's finished project and how much they differed or how their paths were perceived and then presented. My group consisted of Christopher Testa and Justin Fosbenner… will have pictures of our project up later.
The week after the trip to the north seemed to take full advantage of being back in Rome and seeing the wonderful architecture that existed so close to our home…
We started off the week of classes as we typically do with history/theory where our classroom exists in Rome's streets. We spent the day retracing the boundaries and development of Campus Martius over the periods of Rome. We started at our very own studio building at Campo de'Fiori where the Theater of Pompeii was located (and partially remains). We passed many sites or remains of structures including the Baths of Agrippa, Pantheon, Mausoleum of Augustus, Ara Pacis museum which now encases the altar that was part of Augustus' sundial (which as also a part of Campus Martius), and the stadium who's foundations form Piazza Navona.
The Majesty of the Pantheon
Tuesday after Italian class we all met at Piazza del Popolo to catch the tram that dropped us between Parco della Musica and Zaha Hadid's MAXXI (Museo Nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo). It was surreal actually being at Parco della Musica because I remember going through the slides about it during history with such clarity. During that lecture it never, ever crossed my mind that I would actually set foot there… it didn't even connect for me where I was until we exited out of the first and smallest of the auditoriums and I found myself greeted with a view of the other two larger auditoriums. It was at that moment everything came flooding back to me; I remembered hearing about how the angles at which the auditoriums were placed had to be changed because of the discovery of very early ruins, I remembered hearing about what a feat it was to complete a new auditorium in Rome, and I remembered initially looking at the slides and thinking that the auditoriums looked like horseshoe crabs (same impression upon actually seeing them in person). Our professor Marina was our tour guide at Parco della Musica because, conveniently, she is their actual tour guide for english groups. Photos were not allowed in the auditorium halls but it was marvelous; it is clear where Renzo Piano is trying to push past the traditional approach to venue, theater, and acoustical design. While he does not entirely succeed in all of the halls, his moves have been adapted and refined elsewhere to be more successful. The spaces he created at Parco della Musica are, in my opinion, impressive, innovative, and beautiful. Not only were the interior spaces absolutely beautiful and elegant but they were a musicians dream acoustically. The best experience of the visit was when I stood by the stage in the largest hall and sang for my peers sitting up in the higher levels. It was probably more comedic than enjoyable listening considering I ad-libbed "Part of Your World" from Little Mermaid to be about Renzo Piano and architecture, but still, the memory was amazing. For those who know me well know it would be my dream come true to perform on a stage so grand but since I gave up opera and classical and musical theater for architecture, standing next to a stage singing disney tunes to test out the acoustics is still pretty awesome. An opportunity, a memory not many people can say they've had.
The most beautiful horseshoe crab ever
After leaving the Parco della Musica, we walked to the nearby MAXXI but since most of the exhibits were closed we decided to return another day. We were still able to admire the exterior and look at what was originally planned by Zaha Hadid for the site and then entered the interior for a quick cafe break.
MAXXI Exterior
MAXXI Interior
As a little bonus, on Wednesday we met bright and early as a group to go on a guided tour to the Vatican Museum. There was an overwhelming amount to see in the museum itself that we could've spent a whole day there rather than just a few hours. Art collections from many of the different Popes were on display; many commissioned pieces for the Popes by very famous artists including Rafael and Michelangelo or acquired pieces from other centuries, places, and many from throughout ancient Rome itself. We finished the tour of the museum at the Sistine Chapel where we stood in silent awe at the paintings by Michelangelo on the ceiling and his"Last Judgement" painting on the wall behind the altar. Michelangelo's paintings seemed to be framed by frescos of other famous Renaissance artists. The places where Rafael's elaborate tapestries once hung are now painted in the illusionist style to mimic the present of tapestries while the tapestries themselves hang in a room for display, protected by glass cases and dim lighting. To exit the museum we purposefully made our way to the very famous and beautiful spiral staircase (not exactly a staircase throughout, becomes more of a ramp); while not exactly efficient, or probably at times safe, the staircase is a beautiful piece of design from all angles.
View from the Top
View while Descending
View from the Bottom looking up
The week commenced as usual with Italian and Studio on Thursday and then Friday off. The weekend consisted of working in studio on our Derive projects and sketchbooks which were due Tuesday. Monday we visited San Clemente for history along with a couple other basilicas/churches. Thursday morning, however, all of us were up bright and early (around 5-6am) in order to get ready and make the long trek to the immigration office to get fingerprinted as part of the legal process of our stay. It was an interesting adventure to say the least but all went well and we all have to go to the police station in Trastevere in about 40 days to pick up the documentation or whatever it is... My mother asked me a while ago via Skype, what is the best thing I have seen or what is something that I think is a must see? My response to her was everything. Rome is unlike any city in the United States, filled with a bunch of unimpressive or mundane buildings and sparkled with a few really impressive pieces of architecture. While historical references exist in many cities there is very little left that reminds you. The current and the modern of Rome, on the other hand, is strongly tied to the history of the periods before. This is referred to as "Inglobbare" which doesn't have a direct translation to english but it is about the spirit of the place, identity and belonging, doing more than just incorporating history. Everything that is newly built still connects back, identifies, or reflects what historically existed before it. This is very important to Romans; people (politicians specifically) used to memorize speeches based on an imagined journey through a building or place… If the environment in which their journey took place changed then the tool for memorization no longer works. The journey was a fixed root and the city became"a city of collective memory." "Walking through memories reinforces sense of identity"… this is how architecture and planning in Rome is approached.
In the past, being away from home for long amounts of time made me very sad or homesick. While I do of course miss my family and friends, for the first time I do not yearn to return to the physical place that is home… country, state, or town. There is so much beauty in the place I am now and there is so much that is different and good. I have only been here for a short time but I know, looking ahead, that the adjustments that I am going to have to make upon returning back to the States is going to be harder than the adjustments I have had to make here. We are leaving for Turkey on Saturday which will be a life changing adventure and then shortly after I am flying with my two best friends to Trapani in southern Italy and then to Malta to spend part of spring break. For both these trips I am extremely excited as well as nervous. It seems as though there is so much to do and see but the time continues to fly by so fast. There are so many opportunities that are presented that seemed at one time completely out of the realm of possibilities or never even crossed my mind. Who I am and my perception of the world is changing with every day I'm here. I am so grateful for this trip, more than I can begin to explain...
Found this quote and thought it was very amusing so figured I would share it...
"Belladonna, n.: In Italian a beautiful lady; in English a deadly poison. A striking example of the essential identity of the two tongues." Ambrose Bierce, American writer and journalist (1842-1914)
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